Nimsdai Purja’s final words before the deadly Broad Peak avalanche have gone viral, leaving people around the world deeply moved after the legendary mountaineer lost his life during an expedition in Pakistan’s Gilgit-Baltistan.
The renowned Nepali climber, whose real name was Nirmal “Nimsdai” Purja, shared an emotional message on X just days before the tragedy, revealing that his attempt to summit Broad Peak was a last-minute decision inspired by a chance to make mountaineering history.
“This was never the plan,” Purja wrote in his final post on July 27.
According to his expedition company, Elite Exped, Purja died in the Broad Peak avalanche along with fellow climbers Pur Bahadur Gurung and Nima Sherpa. The company confirmed the deaths with “profound sadness and immense heartbreak” and requested privacy for the bereaved families.
Last-minute decision to climb Broad Peak
Purja explained that his original objective was to climb Gasherbrum II (G2) as part of his Hattrick Project. However, before leaving for Pakistan, he reviewed his record of 8,000-metre summits and realised that conquering Broad Peak would leave him only one mountain Cho Oyu away from becoming the first person in history to climb all 14 peaks above 8,000 metres twice without supplemental oxygen.
“Just before setting off for Pakistan, I ran the numbers on my 8000m summits,” he wrote.
He described the opportunity as one that unexpectedly aligned with his long-term ambitions, adding that “opportunities don’t scream; they whisper to those already working in silence.”
Final message before the climb
Aware of the dangers of high-altitude mountaineering, Purja expressed deep respect for the mountain in what would become his final public words.
“Broad Peak, I ask for nothing but safe passage up and back down. I take zero mountains for granted. Not one,” he wrote.
“The moment my foot leaves basecamp, it’s 100%. Always has been. Always will be.”
He also reflected on his personal philosophy, saying he never competed with others but constantly challenged himself to become better.
“My only battle was against the man I was yesterday,” he wrote.
Avalanche claims lives
Purja and his multinational expedition team went missing after an avalanche struck Broad Peak. Early reports raised hopes that some climbers might have survived after tracking devices indicated movement, but rescue teams later confirmed that those caught in the avalanche had died.
Days before the tragedy, Purja had shared updates from the expedition, describing harsh weather, difficult snow conditions, and equipment delays. He said Sherpa teams from Elite Exped and Imagine Nepal were working together to fix ropes and prepare a safe climbing route.
“We stay humble and allow nature to either give us a safe passage or not,” he wrote.
From Gurkha soldier to mountaineering icon
Purja rose to international fame in 2019 after climbing all 14 of the world’s highest peaks in just over six months, shattering the previous record. His remarkable achievement was later featured in the Netflix documentary 14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible.
Before becoming one of the world’s greatest mountaineers, Purja served in the British Army’s Gurkha regiment and later in UK Special Forces. He was awarded an MBE in 2018 for his contributions to high-altitude mountaineering.
‘The noise hasn’t stopped’
In his final message, Purja also addressed criticism he had faced throughout his career, saying he remained focused on his mission despite negative voices.
“They criticised me when I climbed the 14 without O’s during Project Possible. The noise hasn’t stopped. I just stopped listening,” he wrote.
Purja emphasized that his journey was never solely about breaking records but about inspiring others to overcome their own challenges.
“My purpose has never been about me. It’s about what I represent. It’s about showing YOU that your own mountains whatever they are are climbable.”
Although he never completed his final goal of summiting all 14 eight-thousanders twice without oxygen, Nimsdai Purja leaves behind a lasting legacy as one of the most accomplished and inspirational mountaineers in history.
Also read: Nirmal Purja among 10 killed in Broad Peak avalanche
